The village of Labeaume, in southern Ardèche, at the gateway to the Cévennes, lies on the hillside. It proudly overlooks the river La Beaume. It is not far from Ruoms, there is only one way to get there along a road which brings you near the water, and leads to the only accessible carpark. The return takes the same road, which can cause slight traffic jams in the heart of summer, and the carpark can be full. This is why camper vans are no longer allowed in the village. It’s best to be prepared, and to park outside of the village, and walk down to the river on foot, along the narrow stone streets.
This magnificent village, surrounded by limestone cliffs which hold many caves, is well worth exploring. There are the hanging gardens in Le Récatadou, terraces built in the 19th century into the cliff overlooking the river Beaume.
Labeaume is a lovely spot for swimming, in the clear river water. In the village there are several restaurants which offer regional specialties.
Your visit can also include a stop in the necropolis called Le Ranc de Figère which has five dolmens.
On the other side of the river, after you cross a low-water bridge, there is a lookout point which provides you with a breath-taking view over the river and the village. Just below is a hiking path which goes from Labeaume to Saint-Alban-Auriolles and to the Mas Alphonse Daudet. You can also hike to Ruoms. The itinerary between the two villages goes along the river, through the Beaume river canyons, and runs for approximately 5 km.
Just a few days before I wrote this description, on 3 October 2021, the river rose suddenly and overflowed its bed, flooding the village and carrying a torrent of mud into the lower part of the village of Labeaume. We conclude this article by expressing all our support to the inhabitants and tradespeople as they begin the long work of restoring the village after the flood.
Labeaume
